Design of flax-containing jacquard double-layer double-sided fabrics with a pressed pattern-forming weft

Modern interior design increasingly favors eco-friendly textiles made from natural materials in light colors—plaids, curtains, and bedspreads. All kinds of textured and functional effects are also trending, such as double-sided patterns, increased volume and lightness in blankets, and opaque curtains. The aim of the work is to develop new structures of two-layer fabrics with a pressing pattern-forming weft, allowing the creation of a two-sided jacquard pattern, the formation of volumetric effects of the upper and lower layers, and the production of two-layer fabrics with a darkening effect. The paper proposes a new method for forming the structure of a two-layer, double-sided jacquard fabric, which allows for obtaining different patterns on both sides of the fabric, created by the same weft, located between the upper and lower layers and creating a third internal half-layer. Usually, the pressing weft performs the function of connecting the layers, but in this case, it additionally creates a pattern that differs on both sides of the fabric, interweaving with the warp and weft threads in the upper and lower layers. There are fabrics known whose structure consists of 2.5 layers: the top and bottom, formed by warp and weft threads, and the middle, consisting of either warp or weft threads, not intertwined with any of the thread systems. Unlike the proposed structure, the middle half-layer served as a filler for the two-layer fabric, did not connect the layers, and did not participate in the formation of the pattern. The proposed method can be used to produce double-sided decorative items for loft-style interiors – light curtains with a darkening effect, lightweight blankets with volumetric surface effects. Weaves have been developed that allow for the production of double-sided jacquard patterns, shading and volume effects, and experimental samples of a new type of flaxcontaining jacquard fabric have been produced and tested.