Dress-code of Pushkin - the key to his understanding?
Автор: Keller A.V.
Журнал: Вестник Новосибирского государственного университета. Серия: История, филология @historyphilology
Рубрика: Российская история
Статья в выпуске: 8 т.14, 2015 года.
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The black dress coat’s appearance in Russia has become the outer marker, specified the outgoing «Catherine» 18th century»’s end fashionistas of which were called as petit-maitre, and whose place took dandy. As the uniform antithesis - the symbol of the military and the particularity order, dress coat symbolized the civility culture. Ball was the part of secular culture, where they coexisted. Black dress coat is inextricably linked to the dandyism phenomenon, originating in Russia in 1810s. The dandyism phenomenon is interesting because in addition to fashion trends in clothing it involves changing the internal cultural and social attitudes of "golden" Petersburg youth in the first third of the 19th century. Trying to show social views internal development of A. S. Pushkin in the context of the history of war, particularity and secular dress in Russia suggests the emergence new social and behavioral type: not rebel poet, but an opportunist. However, not in relation to public order, but only to court society. Thus, the suit in conjunction with the event, context and emotions of the hero can tell a lot about the man itself. The case of court tailor J. C. Rutch help to localize the poet’s vision about his social status. Pushkin at first glance was a dandy to his behavior and habits as he was a player, heartbreaker and fop. He uses the dandy's aesthetic language representing in his appearance the typical dandy. But the dandyism isn't the end in itself: Pushkin has never blindly followed the fashion. He uses its psychological and behavioral methods in everyday life to distance from society by means of individualism, freedom from the conventions, disobeying the mainstream. The costume behavior's variants are becoming as an axiological code revealing the external embodiment of changing of the poet's life opinion and attitudes in different periods of his life: from the youthful romantic rebelliousness to the middle liberal opposition in the 1830s. The contradictions of the manifestation of the Pushkin's internal position by means of costume and everyday life behavior consist in paradoxical mix of the noble's features and bourgeois, that found its expression in the same extent of democracy of the poet's way of life.
Saint petersburg, a. s. pushkin, tailors of petersburg, westernization, frack, city's handicraft, city's craftworker, modernization
Короткий адрес: https://sciup.org/147219435
IDR: 147219435