New approaches to the analysis of medieval textile using historical material science methods

The paper reports on the study of the structure, fiber composition, reconstructed pattern, decoration of a fragment of the silk textile from a medieval grave at Man-jikiny-2 (kurgan 17, grave 1, mid-13th century) in Kalmykia using a set of methods that complement each other. Most of these methods are non-invasive. The study employed X-ray tomography, large-scale X-ray fluorescence mapping, scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray microanalysis and liquid chromatography with mass-spectrometric detection. The results of the study clarify and substantially complement data on the nature of the fibers and technological features of the cloth obtained using standard macroscopy. Thus, with the help of scientific methods it became possible to determine that golden threads were distributed over the whole surface of the cloth, and their warp threads had been treated with a potassium-containing substance. We also identified an organic dye of red color, presumably obtained from lac insects and revealed areas of close contact of the fabric with bronze objects. The 3D model of the sample helped recreate the weave of the silk and gold threads and clarify the elements of the original pattern (Fig. 5). Clothes made of such silk cloths emphasized the status of the wearer,i. e. a representative of nomadic elite of Mongol origin, or a local ruler. Cloths of red color with golden pattern were common in the south of the Russian Plain from the second half of the 13th century to the 14th century.