Clothing of the nomads of the Kuray Steppe in the 3rd-5th centuries AD (based on archaeological materials from the Kurayka burial ground, Altai Mountains)

The authors propose a preliminary reconstruction of the traditional clothing of the ethnic group inhabiting the Kuray Region during the Great Migration Period. The study is based on fragments of clothing and footwear uncovered during excavations at the Kurayka burial ground in the Kosh-Agach District of the Altai Republic. The remains of items made of wool, felt, leather and silk in various combinations are discussed. The largest fragments suitable for analysis were found in 14 tombs. It is worth noting the absence of fur remains. The burial ground is unique among Bulan-Koba sites due to its homogeneity, the absence of looting signs and the good state of preservation of organic matters. The observations suggest that the Kuray population used a spherical cap-"helmet" with brims covering the ears. The features of the cut of a double-breasted caftan with leather trim are established. Based on the surviving fragments of clothing and Pazyryk/Turkic parallels, the possible shapes of woolen/leather trousers, silk robes, and felt/leather shoes of the persons buried in the Kurayka necropolis were proposed. A woolen or leather belt was recognized as an important detail of the male costume. Apparently, the woolen belt was simply tied in a knot, and the leather belt was tightened through a buckle. Occurrences of large iron buckles suggest the early stage of the tradition to produce composite belts with rectangular plates, hanging rings and/or clamps among the Kurai people. The frequent occurrence of remains of the silk textile in the Kurayka burials is explained by the passage of one of the branches of the Great Silk Road through the Altai Mountains in the 3rd-5th AD.