Food code of Greek culture in Russia: (un)realized ethnic identity

This paper explores the significance of traditional food as a fundamental element of ethnic identity, focusing on Greek restaurants in Moscow and the cuisine of the Pontic Greeks residing in southern Russia. The research topic is of great relevance and novelty due to the lack of studies on the food code of traditional Pontic culture and the corresponding vocabulary. The objective of this study is to analyze the verbal, material, and behavioral aspects of Greek food culture using ethnolinguistic and socio-anthropological methods. The study is based on data collected during fieldwork conducted at Greek restaurants in Moscow between 2018 and 2023, as well as during expeditions to the Greek settlements in the Sochi region, Stavropol Territory, Karachay-Cherkessia, and Novorossiysk region in 2022-2023. Over 100 authentic names of Pontic dishes were documented, such as siron, shurvan, and fustron. It was observed that in different language groups (the Greek-speaking Romei and the Turkish-speaking Urums) parallel names are used for certain dishes (e.g., tanomenon shurvan - airan ashi, tsumur - byazirgyan ashi, etc.). In the context of urbanization and globalization, specific food traditions of Russian Greeks are gradually diminishing and being replaced by Pan-Caucasian cuisine, which includes dishes like barbecue, fried meat, and soups. Greek cultural elements in food establishments adapt to Russian realities while also striving to maintain and demonstrate their ethnic authenticity. However, these cultural components are presented through a subjective Russian perception of Greek traditions, creating a “quasi-authentic” external perception. In terms of the food code, Greek ethnic identity is manifested primarily through a stereotypical Pan-Greek menu that lacks the Pontic component. Consequently, the Greek ethnic identity, both in Moscow and regions with a concentrated Greek population in southern Russia, remains simultaneously realized and unrealized.