Structural and technological allowances, according to changes in the process of operation of dimensional parameters of clothing

The nature of the change in the properties of materials during the operation of clothing is associated with repeated exposure to small external forces that cause the occurrence of reversible and irreversible deformations in materials. The study of the residual deformation of the materials of clothing packages under the action of cyclically changing loads will make it possible to make adjustments to the values of structural allowances, even at the design stage of clothing. The purpose of the work is to determine the relative magnitude of residual deformations of various materials, taking into account operational factors and determining the necessary allowances at the design and manufacture of clothing. The authors have developed an experimental setup that allows cyclic loading and biaxial deformation, and after testing, to measure the value of residual deformation. The work summarizes the experimental experience of research on determining the relative values of residual deformations for various types of materials. To take into account the relative values of residual deformations, formulas are proposed for calculating allowances for materials of a package of products, taking into account relative deformations. These allowances provide freedom of movement, create a comfortable condition for a person. Taking into account the average values of the optimal thickness of the package of materials, the calculation of the increments along the chest line for standard clothing design methods was performed. The results of the research were used in the development of ergonomic clothing for extreme mountain tourism athletes, which received positive feedback from consumers.