Emulative potential in sport climbing

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The researches results which allow determining the emulative potential of a sportswoman at the preparation stage for international competitions are given in the article. The factors which influence on the final result while passing the qualification emulative track in discipline "difficulty" were defined. With the aim of determination the characteristics of influencing factors and their connection degree with the final result, the performances of rock climbers at the world championships and at the stages of the World Cup were researched. The women's performances in climbing on "difficulty" at the qualifying stage of the competition were studied. More than 550 starts at 11 international competitions were analyzed. It was found that from 8 factors, which were used to get the marks, only 5 of them were important for the result: the factors of single (d) and hidden movement (z), the tempo of unmixed climbing (т), total time (в) and recovery time (в1). The results showed that a very close connection degree with the final result is observed in two factors: single (rd = 0,98) and hidden movement (rz = 0,99). These factors also have the highest values of β-coefficient. But the coefficient of determination of z-factor is one of the lowest (R2=0,28), because of minor absolute indicators on the implementation of this climbing element. The other variables are approximately at the same level by contribution to the result. The researches allowed developing the mathematical model, which determine the sportswomen's potential at the pre-competition stage. The present model can be used for determination of emulative ability of sportswomen of the second qualification group. With the help of this model it is possible to predict the result of the performance, to determine the readiness degree and to identify the weak components of individual emulative efficiency of sportswomen.

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Climbing, international competitions, emulative potential

Короткий адрес: https://sciup.org/14264013

IDR: 14264013

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