Study of design of traditional shoulder clothes of peoples of Central Asia and Kazakhstan

It is known that the principle of building a national costume is the same, regardless of the traditions of different peoples. It is based on rationality, practicality and economy, expressed in a simple geometric form. In addition, the main distinguishing features of the traditional costume are its design, proportional ratio of elements, the character of the decor, color and materials [1-3].

Currently, relatively few samples of the Kazakh folk costume have been preserved in the museum funds of the Republic of Kazakhstan (RK). Thus, most of garments which are presented in the collections of the Central State Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan (CSM RK) are made relatively recently (50th - 90th of the 20th century), and only a small part of the exhibits date back to the end of the 19th century. Partial information about the costume of an earlier period can be obtained from rare editions with sketches and verbal descriptions.

In the preface to the scientific catalog of the CSM RK, published in 2009, it was pointed that there is a lack of equipment for museum premises in the RK for the proper preservation of exhibits such as clothing. As a result, the unsatisfactory condition of the objects of the TC stored in the funds. In this catalog, Kazakh costume garments date mostly back to the mid-late 20th century. It should also be noted that the bulk of items of ancient Kazakh clothing, which was kept in museums in Russia since the end of the 19th century, has been irretrievably lost over the time.

Consequently, the researchers face the challenge of recreating the folk cut with the goal of developing traditional Kazakh clothing, using both traditional and modern technologies with no distortion of the value of the national costume.

Objects and methods of research

The object of the study is the design of the traditional costume of the peoples of Central Asia and Kazakhstan. The work uses historical-ethnographic, experimental-theoretical methods of investigation.

Results and its discussion

It should be noted that to this day TC of Kazakhs have been preserved in a highly modified "Europeanized" version, having lost some of its identity.

As a result of the marketing review of modern Kazakh national clothes, presented in the market of consumer goods, the complete absence of models with authentic designs inherent in traditional cuts has been established. A survey of potential consumers showed that the visual identification of clothing as an object "national (traditional) Kazakh costume" is due to three indicators:

• 1.    traditional elements of ornament;

• 2.    materials for outerwear of limited assortment (velvet, velor, brocade);

• 3.    colors (dark green, dark blue, burgundy, red, black).

That is, at the present time there exists an artificially created variant of the Kazakh Kazakhs that is adapted to the modern cut, which does not fully reflect its original image, and sometimes distorts it beyond recognition.

The TC of the peoples of the Central Asian region underwent much less changes and partially retained its archaic design, which is a tunic-shaped cut with a few number of pieces[3].

• 1 .Rectangular panels with inserts of a triangular or trapezoidal shape. The inserts could be placed on each side, starting from the armhole, from the waist line, in the back middle back of the backrest, along the front edge. This is a more archaic cut-off principle, associated with the small width of a hand loom. At the same time, it is the most economical way, allowing the use of fabric on the principle of wasteless cut.

• 2 .Trapezoidal cloth. Such cut can be found in the costume of Kazakhs of a later period (early 20th century onwards). Obviously, this method of cutting was developed later, in connection with the wide spread of factory fabrics, which began around the middle of the 19th century [3, 4].

  №	Type of clothes	О =$ £ Й	Cut	Scheme of the construction				Country
  1	Shirt	55	One piece body, sleeves					Kazakhstan Uzbekistan Tajikistan Turkmenistan
  							........................
  2	Shirt	*5 N н	One piece body, sleeves with gores					Kazakhstan Uzbekistan Tajikistan Turkmenistan
  3	Shirt, dress	’о & сЗ н	One/ two pieces body, sleeves, side gores					Kazakhstan Uzbekistan Tajikistan Turkmenistan
  4	Dress	& сЗ н	One/ two pieces body, sleeves, underarm gussets	R	с	Г"	и	Uzbekistan Tajikistan Turkmenistan
  5	Robe	55	One/ two piece body, sleeves, side gores, underarm gussets,					Kazakhstan Uzbekistan Tajikistan Turkmenistan

The design of shapan and shirt, character-rized by the presence of whole details of the front and back parts, sleeves of a trapezoidal (or rectangular) shape is inherent in the Kazakh costume of a later period (from the beginning of the 20th century).

Conclusion

Thus, in the process of determining the module of the traditional costume cut, it is necessary to take into account that the dimensions of the parts depended on two main factors: the overall dimensions of the human body and the width of the fabric.