Traditional costume of the Orlovsky Komi: specificity and dynamics at the "historical turning point" of the 1920s

Western Permian Komi lived in the Orlovsky district of the Vyatka province, and their ethnic culture revealed a series of features and similarities with other communities of the Komi and neighboring peoples. The article analyzes the costume complexes of this ethnic group. A bright page in the history of material culture is represented by the traditional women's costume at the "historical turning point", i.e. in the 1920s. Its early version includes a magpie headdress, a shirt with slanting Cumack rugs, a straight sleeve with longitudinal embroidery, a red Kosoklinny sarafan, a belt, an apron, beads with Kauri shells and glass beads, double-sided copper earrings and rings, and nasal jewelry. Kosoklinny sarafans from purchased red fabric or blue dyed canvas were decorated with a green woolen cord laid in a stylized tree on the chest and in the centre of the hem in front. The back was decorated with braid sewn above the shoulder blades. The later version includes shirts with yokes, like the Russians in the Veliko-Ustyug district had, and straight pest-row sarafans, like in the middle Vyatka region. Headdresses, scarves, aprons and belts were reproduced in the old way.